Day 8 – “The Shadow of the Past”

The morning started out similarly to most other mornings on the trip. We all woke up gradually and made our way into the common room to have breakfast. Cereal and toast – simple items and yet they never get old. We each pulled out our computers and worked as the morning progressed.

A male and female raven take shelter behind the Hamlet building out of the wind. They took a break from tending to their nest to preen their feathers in the sun. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A male and female raven take shelter behind the Hamlet building out of the wind. They took a break from tending to their nest to preen their feathers in the sun. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We still had two more full days in Kugluktuk after today, but even though we had explored most areas around town, we all wanted to get out and go for a hike.

A family takes a trip around town on their quad with a trailer. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A family takes a trip around town on their quad with a trailer. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

After another filling lunch, Rob made for the door. I did not want to miss my opportunity for a hike today, so I grabbed my bag and laced up my hiking boots. Greg decided to join us too. Matt stayed behind to watch the second half of the World Cup game.

A bird perches atop a 100+ foot cliff, ambivalent to the floor below. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A bird perches atop a 100+ foot cliff, ambivalent to the floor below. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We set out in hopes of finding the stromatolite we had found a couple days earlier. We first climbed the other hill that rises to the west of town. We descended on the opposite side of the hill and traversed across the soft tundra between the two exposed rock faces. A species of gull caught an updraft of wind and hovered confidently above our heads as we set food on the new rock cliff.

A species of sea gull catches an updraft from the edge of the cliffs. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A species of sea gull catches an updraft from the edge of the cliffs. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We wandered around the spot where we thought we had seen the stromatolite earlier this week, but we could not find it. In the distance I heard the distinctive call of a raven. On the valley floor below a raven was hopping carefully across the tundra.

Can you find the raven? This brazen bird was willing to put up with the mobbing behavior of a male and female bird for the chance at finding their nest. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Can you find the raven? This brazen bird was willing to put up with the mobbing behavior of a male and female bird for the chance at finding their nest. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Overhead, a medium-sized brown bird repeatedly mobbed the raven below. Mobbing is a behavior seen in birds to protect their nest, mate, or hatchlings. The interesting thing to me is that in each situation I have observed mobbing behavior, a smaller bird has been attacking a much larger bird. I am not sure if this is a consistent pattern with all bird species, but regardless I watched closely. From what I could tell the raven was searching carefully for something on the ground, possibly a nest. Eventually the raven gave up and flew off. The smaller bird did not leave the raven’s retreat to chance. Instead, it provided an escort off of its premises and occasionally moved in close and plucked a few feathers from the raven. Nature can be a rough place to live…

Researcher Greg Lehn takes in the view of Coronation Bay. On the horizon, ice still clogs the coastline. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researcher Greg Lehn takes in the view of Coronation Bay. On the horizon, ice still clogs the coastline. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. stops to search for more stromatolite fossils. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. stops to search for more stromatolite fossils. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We continued toward the edge of the town past the pump station where the Coppermine River flows into Coronation Bay. As we made our way down to the water level we passed various species of flowers that had recently appeared on the hillside.

Purple Mountain Saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) grows resiliently on a rock. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Purple Mountain Saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) grows resiliently on a rock. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Entire-Leaved Mountain Avens (Dryas integrifolia) burst into the sunlight. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Entire-Leaved Mountain Avens (Dryas integrifolia) burst into the sunlight. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

These small bursts of purple, yellow, and white were in stark opposition to the drab brown vegetation that served as their backdrop.

Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. improvises to climb this snowy face by punching in steps with his boots. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. improvises to climb this snowy face by punching in steps with his boots. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

As we neared the easternmost point of the Kugluktuk, we noticed a series of crosses on the other side of the river. This was Kugluktuk’s older cemetery that can no longer be used. The existence of the cemetery, just like the people living in town, is being threatened by a changing climate.

The old cemetery across the Coppermine River. It is threatened by the thawing of permafrost and eroding riverbanks encroaching on the graves. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The old cemetery across the Coppermine River. It is threatened by the thawing of permafrost and eroding riverbanks encroaching on the graves. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Years ago, the cooler weather each year kept the ground from thawing completely during the summer. In the Arctic, this is a big deal. Ice and permafrost help to hold the ground together to create a stable platform. It also minimizes erosion, which can claim large chunks of soil and land from the edge of a river. As the ground has thawed the bank has become more eroded each year. What is the result? Several graves are only a few feet from becoming uncovered. Although there has been a new cemetery started in more stable part of town, the thought that climate change has the potential to reach beyond the grave speaks to the unexpected consequences we have yet to witness from this global issue.

Researcher Greg Lehn walks along the shore of the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researcher Greg Lehn walks along the shore of the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

At the river’s edge the rocks had been smoothed dramatically compared to the same rocks higher up. All of the ice on the shore was gone. We trekked along the water’s edge back around to town. We spent the rest of the day inside, enjoying the seemingly endless supply of coffee. I went to bed early, looking forward to getting an early start in the morning.

Day 7 – “Buy-N-Large”

Willow bush buds emerge from the tips of each branch, hoping to reproduce successfully during the short growing season in the Arctic Circle. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Willow bush buds emerge from the tips of each branch, hoping to reproduce successfully during the short growing season in the Arctic Circle. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

I slept in a bit and woke up to a thick layer of fog outside my window. The temperature outside was a breezy 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I grabbed a quick breakfast and got to work. Lunch snuck up quickly and (predictably) it left me in a near food-coma like state. Over the past several days, we had wandered to many places around town. However, the one place I still wanted to explore was the beach. We all packed our bags after lunch and headed toward the beach for a hike.

Three flags fly outside of the Hamlet office in Kugluktuk. From the left, the Kugluktuk flag, the Canadian flag, and the Nunavut flag. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Three flags fly outside of the Hamlet office in Kugluktuk. From the left, the Kugluktuk flag, the Canadian flag, and the Nunavut flag. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald discuss the interesting geology of the region. The rock beneath them is metamorphic, but below that layer is a layer of sedimentary rock - a form of shale. This rare event is caused when rock that has been melted from heat and pressure below gets pushed through a gap in sedimentary rock to the surface where it flattens out. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald discuss the interesting geology of the region. The rock beneath them is metamorphic, but below that layer is a layer of sedimentary rock – a form of shale. This rare event is caused when rock that has been melted from heat and pressure below gets pushed through a gap in sedimentary rock to the surface where it flattens out. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

What I saw there made me consider this beautiful place through a different lens.

Candle ice breaks up along the shore as water drains into Coronation Bay from the tundra above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Candle ice breaks up along the shore as water drains into Coronation Bay from the tundra above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

When I was a sophomore at Saint Louis University, I took a course titled “Conservation Biology” with Dr. Tom Valone, Ph.D. In the first week of class, Dr. Valone mentioned a disturbing, but vital, assumption that is made in every situation regarding conservation biology.

The once drab beach is slowly waking from its winter slumber. These grasses and small plants mark the first beach-goers to stake out their spot on this town's sandy shores. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The once drab beach is slowly waking from its winter slumber. These grasses and small plants mark the first beach-goers to stake out their spot on this town’s sandy shores. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The primary assumption is that humans have impacted every ecosystem on the planet, and in order to manage an ecosystem, the human element or role in each system must be acknowledged. There are the obvious signs of this principle of human impact, such as a town constructed where a forest once grew or a commercial fishing ship that pulls in 100 tons of fish per year. This assumption might seem unimportant and obvious, but consider for a second what this means on a large scale.

A black trash bag sits quietly on the beach as the season's new plants begin to peak their stems out of their winter shelter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A black trash bag sits quietly on the beach as the season’s new plants begin to peak their stems out of their winter shelter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

If you decide to travel to the middle of the Amazon rainforest, the highest peak of Mount Everest, the continent of Antarctica, or the bottom of the ocean, a human impact, or footprint, is visible here too. Partially due to globalization and population growth, there is no longer any place on earth where we can actually say with certainty that the area is “untouched.”

Researchers Rob Macdonald and Greg Lehn walk on the edge of the shore, examining rocks and trash washed to the water's edge. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Rob Macdonald and Greg Lehn walk on the edge of the shore, examining rocks and trash washed to the water’s edge. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

This is a sobering fact. Okay, I will be honest – it is simply depressing. As we walked onto the beach outside Kugluktuk, the lecture from Conservation Biology replayed in my mind as I was confronted with one example of the impact we have left – trash.

Trash of all shapes, sizes, colors and compositions could be found along the shoreline. Coke cans, grocery bags, Styrofoam cups, fishing line, potato chip bags, and plastic bottles were scattered everywhere. Even a canoe lay buried in the sand, forgotten by its previous owner.

A "Sik Sik," a type of ground squirrel, has adapted to city life in Kugluktuk. Similar to the beaches outside town, trash is a major issue in town that is evident in this Sik Sik's habitat. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A “Sik Sik,” a type of ground squirrel, has adapted to city life in Kugluktuk. Similar to the beaches outside town, trash is a major issue in town that is evident in this Sik Sik’s habitat. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The item that stood out to me most of all was a small green alien with three eyes. This extraterrestrial visitor had apparently been chosen by “The Claw” to spend its days floating around the ocean. The organism was actually a toy from the movie Toy Story and it was floating at the water’s edge.

This 3-eyed alien found his way onto an Arctic beach, just one sign of the trash floating in the ocean or discarded carelessly. (Photo credit: Amazon.com)
This 3-eyed alien found his way onto an Arctic beach, just one sign of the trash floating in the ocean or discarded carelessly. (Photo credit: Amazon.com)

Planet earth had not seen an alien creature like this before. In fact, in many ways all of the trash on the beach would have been considered alien not long ago. A century ago, humans had the potential to impact the planet on a global scale. However, the extent and magnitude of that impact has increased significantly from past to the present. The trash found on this remote beach in Kugluktuk is one example of how much larger our footprint on earth’s ecosystems has grown.

A shorebird bobs gently in the water. Many shorebird species have been known to consume and die from ingesting trash. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A shorebird bobs gently in the water. Many shorebird species have been known to consume and die from ingesting trash. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

As we walked along the shore, I found myself overwhelmed by the extent of the problem. Trash was everywhere, and there seemed to be no way to stop the flow of new trash. I believe that individual actions can have a large impact. When I saw so much trash in a place that I expected to be pristine, I shut down. I could not muster my normal response, which would be to do what I could to improve the situation – it all seemed too much. However, with any gargantuan task, it is important to remember that even small moves in the right direction can shift momentum. I decided to pick up ever piece of trash that was directly in front of me on the return trip. By the time we had returned to the main hill in town, I had an empty bleach bottle, a Cool Whip container, several plastic bags, and a chips bag – a small portion of the trash that I passed on the beach. This was enough to remind me that issues such as this can be fixed, if we all work to try to keep our own beaches clean. Most of us have seen the movie Wall-E. If you were like me, when you saw how the movie depicted the trash left by the humans before they left on ships, you probably thought, “That will never happen to us.” Although Wall-E exaggerated this concept (let’s hope…), the crux of the problem is still there. If we treat our planet like a garbage dump by throwing anything anywhere, then there will always be sunsets, hikes up mountains, and trips to the beach that will be changed because of the trash that interrupts our experience. If we cannot begin to clean up these places and prevent more trash from being deposited here, then the only thing we will be doing is throwing away our chance to experience nature as it was intended. We will always assume in conservation biology that all ecosystems are impacted by humanity – my hope is that the impact that we leave is a positive one.

A busy raven parent responds to the cries of his or her offspring. The newly-hatched chicks demand constant attention and care. I guess in the interest of being modern, these parents also wanted to offer their offspring cable TV... (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A busy raven parent responds to the cries of his or her offspring. The newly-hatched chicks demand constant attention and care. I guess in the interest of being modern, these parents also wanted to offer their offspring cable TV… (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Day 6 – “The Passage of the Marshes”

A view of Coronation Bay from Enokhuk Inn. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A view of Coronation Bay from Enokhuk Inn. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The amount of sunlight that seeped through the curtains as I woke up indicated that there was a bit of fog this morning. A glance out the window confirmed my suspicions. I rolled out of bed and completed my pushups and sit-ups for the day. Actually, I fell behind a few days ago, so I did twice as many today to start to make up lost ground. It has become a necessity to incorporate this into my morning routines up here. It is not common for people to go on runs around here, partially due to the ever-present risk of running into a bear or other large mammal. Although I would love to see a bear at some point on this trip (at a safe distance), I would prefer not to see one when I am a mile outside of town by myself with no defense except the blindingly reflective qualities of my Irish skin. As a result I have taken to doing these minor workouts to hold off accumulating too many pounds from all of the delicious meals provided to us by Nadene and Johnny. I have never left a meal hungry that’s for sure. When I first signed on to come to the Arctic I thought meals would consist of Ramen noodles and bread! I could not have been further from the truth.

A raven surveys its domain, while setting its wing tips alight with the sun's rays. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A raven surveys its domain, while setting its wing tips alight with the sun’s rays. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The community aspect of this project is part of what makes it so great. In each city we visit, Matt has established a relationship with the local Hunters and Trappers Organization (HTO) and individuals at each location have offered to assist us with our work. These relationships are critical to the success of this project – without local help and knowledge we would limp along each step of the way. The HTO of Kugluktuk assists in many other scientific research studies to help understand their ecosystem. They have participated in shorebird studies, caribou tracking, fish population monitoring, and much more. Jorgan and Christian, our two local research assistants, are prime examples of this commitment from the community to continue adapting their knowledge base for the organisms and environments they interact with on a daily basis.

The Broad-Leaved Willow Herb has started to grow through the thick mat of dead plants left from the last growing season. Although only a few inches tall, these flowers are the harbinger of summer, providing bursts of color amongst the drab colors left from winter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The Broad-Leaved Willow Herb has started to grow through the thick mat of dead plants left from the last growing season. Although only a few inches tall, these flowers are the harbinger of summer, providing bursts of color amongst the drab colors left from winter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Today Greg and Matt headed down to meet Christian and Jorgan at the Kugluktuk HTO to teach them how to collect the water samples. While they went to do that, Rob and I stayed behind at Enohkuk Inn to hold down the fort.

The first plane to land at Kugluktuk Airport in several days arrives. Heavy fog has prevented necessary groceries and other materials from arriving in this remote town. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The first plane to land at Kugluktuk Airport in several days arrives. Heavy fog has prevented necessary groceries and other materials from arriving in this remote town. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

One of the great aspects of this trip has been the ability to catch up on several things that I have not had the opportunity to work on since last summer. I grabbed a cup of coffee and got to work. We worked through lunch and chatted with Johnny and Nadene. Greg and Matt did not get back from collecting samples until about 3:00 PM, but when they had settled in we checked to see if they were interested in going for a hike. Greg agreed, so we packed out bags and donned our boots.

Roy, a resident of the small town of Kugluktuk, brings by a carving he made of two narwhals made out of soapstone. He has been carving for the past 30 years. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Roy, a resident of the small town of Kugluktuk, brings by a carving he made of two narwhals made out of soapstone. He has been carving for the past 30 years. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The hike started out on the high ground to the south of town. We traipsed around the rocks and bluffs overlooking the river. We stumbled upon a stromatolite, which is an ancient life form that is presumed to be one of the first organisms to produce oxygen gas (O2) on a large scale.

A stromatolite sits atop the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. A stromatolite is a type of organism that lived millions of years ago in the ocean before it ended up here. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A stromatolite sits atop the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. A stromatolite is a type of organism that lived millions of years ago in the ocean before it ended up here. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The presence of stromatolites in oceans around the planet dramatically changed the composition of earth’s atmosphere.

The view from the top of the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The view from the top of the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

How did it end up on a cliff in northern Canada? Two of the usual suspects of global rearrangement, continental drift and glaciation, most likely deposited this ancient organism at its current location.

Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald look out at the delta of the Coppermine River from the bluffs above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald look out at the delta of the Coppermine River from the bluffs above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We explored the bluffs and eventually found ourselves on a four-wheeler track (“quad” as they are referred to in Canada) that lead into the lowlands toward the river.

Plants in the tundra begin to produce oxygen gas (O2) as the summer season kicks into full swing. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Plants in the tundra begin to produce oxygen gas (O2) as the summer season kicks into full swing. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The ground squished and slurped every step we took. It had an uneasiness about it that made me wonder what our steps did to the soil as we carefully made our way across the delta, or floodplain, of the river.

The trail through the soggy tundra. Much of this trail was either submerged in water or the soil was completely saturated. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The trail through the soggy tundra. Much of this trail was either submerged in water or the soil was completely saturated. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Greg described the soil here as walking on a wet mattress. With every step the ground shifted as though on springs. Water seeped into every footprint.

The valley floor extends into the distance. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The valley floor extends into the distance. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The delta of the river was saturated with water. I quickly regretted not wearing my rubber boots. We sloshed along further. Several times, I reached sections of the trail where water lapped at the rim of my boots, waiting to flow over at any moment if given the opportunity. We reached a creek that was too wide to cross and turned around. The hills gracefully rose to our left again as we proceeded back toward town.

The rim surrounding the delta (floodplain) of the river separates the slightly drier tundra above from the extremely saturated land below. Walking on the delta is comparable to walking on a waterbed. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The rim surrounding the delta (floodplain) of the river separates the slightly drier tundra above from the extremely saturated land below. Walking on the delta is comparable to walking on a waterbed. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

This was my first experience with arctic tundra, and more specifically arctic tundra that was no longer frozen. As the project progresses I presume this will become much more commonplace as the ground continues to warm and thaw for summer.

Fog moved in as we sat down to dinner, which prevented any further exploration.

The town of Kugluktuk at its darkest moment during the summer. The sun never completely sets this far north! (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The town of Kugluktuk at its darkest moment during the summer. The sun never completely sets this far north! (Photo credit: John Kelly)

I caught up on a bit of work and sat in the common room of Enokhuk Inn with a cup of coffee in hand until late in the evening. The side of me that is always on the go wanted to be out in the field again. On the flip side, there was something special about the peace and quiet that can be found up here if one is willing to listen. It is easy to find noise in many places these days, but it can be much more difficult to find quiet. I closed my computer and finished my cup of coffee while the sun drifted close to the horizon behind the sheet of fog.

The view of the sunset from Enokhuk Inn. The clouds on the horizon present the closest thing to the actual horizon during the summer months where the sun never completely sets in the Arctic. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The view of the sunset from Enokhuk Inn. The clouds on the horizon present the closest thing to the actual horizon during the summer months where the sun never completely sets in the Arctic. (Photo credit: John Kelly)